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Traveling in Myanmar (Burma)

Myanmar in three weeks: what to do and where to go

Sunrise at U Bein Bridge, Amarapura, Myanmar

Welcome to Marta’s Blog! Today I will tell you all about our (Hugh and I) experience in Myanmar (Burma), that we visited in January 2016. Myanmar is an absolutely beautiful country which is still relatively unspoilt by mass tourism…. Here below you will find handy notes, tour tips and (of course!) great photos taken by us along the journey with our Nikon D700 and Canon 5D Mark III. Please don’t forget to leave your feedback! That will help us to improve our traveling journal and share our insights on further journeys at best

OK, let’s start with some quick facts that will help you organize your trip to Myanmar:

Getting ready for Myanmar

-Visa: A travel visa is required to enter Myanmar. As we live in central London (UK) it was very easy to have our Visa requested and collected at the Myanmar embassy in only 3 days but you can now also apply online and get a Visa on arrival.

-Where to go in Myanmar and how long to stay: On this occasion we have visited the most popular sites and I created a route accordingly, considering that we wanted to travel by land only being the internal flights still expensive compared with other Asian countries. Our trip starts and finishes in Yangon, touching Mandalay/Bagan/Inle Lake/Golden Rock and Ngwe Saung Beach, first of all because we wanted to meet some friends who where also traveling there at this time and secondly because there are better flight deals to Yangon than Mandalay from Bangkok. We enjoyed all the places in our list and it turned out as a great round-ish trip route for a twenty days trip in Myanmar. Moreover although traveling at peak time, we didn’t feel the places to be overcrowded with tourism at all, excluding some very popular mementos such as watching the sunrise from the temples in Bagan or visiting the Golden Rock in the Mon State.

-The weather in Myanmar and when to go: The weather can change greatly depending on which part of the country you are staying. We traveled in January and jumped from a sweaty 30 degrees in Yangon daytime down to 5 degrees in the mountains in Central Myanmar surrounding Inle Lake in the evening…make sure you carry a foldable warm windproof jacket in your luggage. The best season to go is from November to March as the heat is still bearable and it does not rain so much. March to May is much hotter while from June to October the Moonson season is in place so there will be a lot of rainy days.

-Money change and Myanmar currency: Although they accept (only) pristine no marks or bends USdollars, their local currency is the kyat which is now accepted everywhere we went. You will find money changers and ATM’s in all major tourist places such as Yangon/Mandalay/Bagan/Kalaw/Inle Lake/Golden Rock/Ngwe Saung Beach.
At the airport there are a also a few money changer offices although I lost 80$ in commissions to change 850 Euros, which equals 10%… look around until you find a fair money changer! They are accepting their local currency (kyat) everywhere now, I would say there is no point to bring cash dollars although some hotels will give you a slightly better rate if you pay $ for the rooms. At Jan 2016 the standard rate is 1USD=1300k. 1 Euro is 1420k. Make sure that they don’t go too far with the exchange rates!

-Advance bookings in peak time (December to January): We have booked hotels mainly through Bookings/Agoda or by phoning directly hotels that were listed in the lonely planet a few days in advance and we always found space within our budget, although if you turn up or call on the day and look for a specific hotel that may be fully booked. Same goes for transport: on the major destinations such as Yangon, and Mandalay,there are frequent buses departing throughout the day and evening, but we always booked our tickets with the hotel one or two days before for peace of mind. For the train instead we were told that as we are tourists there will always be a seat for us and it was best just to buy the train ticket at the station.

-If you fly to Myanmar from Bangkok: Only Yangon and Mandalay have international airports. All the other airports in Myanmar are for domestic flights only. If you fly from Bangkok just remember that you may need to commute between the Shuravabunmi? and Don Muaeng airports: now there is a free shuttle and it takes about one hour without traffic.

-Wi-fi or not Wi-fi...At the time of travelling (Jan 2016) I found Wi-fi working OK in almost all hotels, I could make my bookings online, check emails and call with skype and whats app – ish. However I strongly recommend to get a local SIM – Telenor being the best so far – as you will browse much faster and everywhere with no wi-fi needs.

Electricity Power Cables in the streets of Yangon, Myanmar

-Calling home: If you haven’t got one already, create a skype account and put some credit on it so you can call anyone on or offline (provided that you are connected to the internet). If the person you are calling is online you can try calling with whats app or messenger, it worked for us most of the times.

-Local SIM: At the time of writing (Jan 2016) we were told the best local network is Telenor as the signal is all over the country, not just the main cities. A local call costs 25k, and is 5kper MB download. The SIM supports 3 GB. The cost of the card is 2000k and comes with a few minutes local calls available. Add an extra 10000k and you will be able to browse,make local calls and the odd international call too for a 3 weeks stay. The only place where it didn’t work was in some of the rural areas during the trekking route from Kalaw to the Inle Lake. As it is working much faster than the wifi in the hotels, I strongly recommend to get one if you need the internet.

-Water: Remember to drink water only from the bottle. Brush your teeth with bottled water also. Avoid fresh fruit and veg unless they are pealed right in front of you and avoid ICE. Also if you drink fresh juices from local Myanmar restaurants make sure they do not add water unless it has been purified.

-Vaccinations: It is suggested that you have a jab of Hepathitis A/Typhoid/Tetanus.

-Malaria Risk: They say Myanmar is at moderate/high risk of Malaria. In the peak season -being the weather rather dry – we haven’t experienced many mosquito bites so we only used deet spray at dusk and dawn and we were OK.

-Don’t forget to bring: An electric strip to charge all your devices at once and the adaptor. We have experienced some power cuts especially in budget hotels and we didn’t want to take the risk of not having our phones and cameras charged.
A torch for power cuts or to walk in the night in rural areas
A medicine set against food bugs/diarrhea attacks including dehydration salt sachets.
A toilet roll/antibacteria hand gel /freshener tissues/ eye mask/sun lotion of around 30spf or 50spf for very white skin.

-Safety: Myanmar people are lovely and think very highly of tourists. It is a very safe place to travel both for men and women.

-How to budget your costs in Myanmar:

Hotels: rooms can be very expensive compared with other South East Asian Countries like Thailand or Cambodia..Generally speaking for one simple but decent double room (with a window, a private bathroom, TV and clean you will spend around $30).
Transport by land like buses and trains is very cheap, like 10000k from Yangon to Mandalay on a VIP 10 hrs bus…taxis can be very expensive, like 10000k for one hour drive.

Food: Food eaten at their local restaurants or street stalls is very cheap also, you can easily have a full meal with 5000k, unless you choose to have dinner in upmarket restaurants, where you should expect to pay about 10000k for a complete meal excluding alcohol.

Transport: flights are still expensive compared to other SEA countries, i.e. 100-150$ for domestic destinations. Buses are the cheapest, quickest and sometimes the only option for most places.
For example, Yangon-Mandalay by bus is 11.500 kyat, Mandalay-Bagan 9000 kyat. Taxis are expensive, about 10.000k per hour of driving. Consider taxi costs for transfer to and from Airports or bus stations which sometimes are far from the city centre.

Staff Tips: They are not expected but they are very welcome. I always leave around 10% with meals and local transports.

How much shall I set aside for my Myanmar holiday trip altogether: We have spent around 900USD per person for a 20 days stay in peak season (Nov-Jan) and we got decent budget rooms ($30 per room/day), we ate international food/fish a few times a week and could spare enough money to cover for site entry fees/tips/laundries/transports around the country/the odd glass of wine and about 50$ worth of souvenirs. If you are in a strict budget you can do with 30$ p.p/ day, if you are a bit more loose like us you should allow around $45 p.p/day.
(Note: The budget above does not include any domestic or international flights/visa fees/travel insurance)

OK, are you ready to follow us on our exciting trip in Myanmar? As they say, LET’S GO!!!

The Road to Mandalay…

We started our trip with an overnight bus from Yangon to Mandalay. I was a bit concerned to find a seat because I didn’t get the chance to book from London. But once here I found out that there are about 20-30 overnight buses on the road to Mandalay every night! (having said so in peak season the bus stations are packed with locals as well as tourists waiting to get a ticket..although the chance of all the buses to be fully booked seems unlikely, I would still book the bus ticket one-two days in advance from the hotel, they all have this facilities. Make sure you ask for a VIP Express Bus which is more comfortable.

I had heard online that they put loud music on and the air conditioning makes you freeze so I came prepared with eye mask, socks an a few layers to put on. We were lucky that on our bus TV and lights were off throughout the whole journey and you could dim the air con mouth to be totally off too.

There are different companies operating, our bus was from Mandalar Minn. Their new Scania travel buses are very comfortable with reclining seats, a cushion, a blanket and a bottle of water provided for each seat.

VIP sleeper bus that runs the road Yangon to Mandalay, Myanmar

Inside a VIP sleeper bus that runs the highway Yangon to Mandalay, Myanmar

We left at 9pm, with only one stop after 3 hours at a dedicated restaurant on the motorway for a 30 min break. From then we didn’t stop anymore until arrival in Mandalay at 5pm! I am not sure whether the bus stopped at midnight because it was New Years Eve and they wanted to give us some time to celebrate or if it just happened that we were scheduled to stop at that specific place and time but a local band was playing live outside the restaurant and as the midnight hit we could enjoy fireworks too, what a nice surprise!!

New Year’s Eve 2015-2016 on a VIP bus to Mandalay, Myanmar

Live band music playing outside a restaurant to celebrate the New Year's Eve, Myanmar

Live band music on New Year’s Eve, playing outside the restaurant area during our bus break, Myanmar

As you get off the bus you will be met by thousands of taxi drivers that will take you to the centre for about 8000k.

Mandalay, my highlights:

Considering that Mandalay is the second most populated capital in Myanmar I found it relatively quiet in terms of traffic. People are really laid back here comparing to other major cities in South East Asia. It’s like traveling back in time, we liked it! Apart from the horrible pollution due to engine fuels and the fires htat the people set in the evening and at sunrise to both warm up and get rid of the plastic waste… If you have enough time, set three days to visit Mandalay and the surrounding areas. Don’t miss:

Walking on top of Mandalay Hill Pagoda barefoot! Climb the 1729 steps is a fun experience! It takes about 30 mins, but the path is clean and it won’t hurt I promise! You will find many monks along the path, like Ashinnyanadaja, they walk up the hill in the hope to engage with foreigners and learn English, in exchange of sharing their knowledge on Buddhism and their experience as a monk. A great panorama can be enjoyed from the top!

Entrance at the bottom of Mandalay Hill, Myanmar

On the way up Mandalay Hill, Myanmar

This is Ashinnyanadaja, one of the many buddhist Monks that are keen to practice their English in Mandalay Hill, Myanmar

A Buddhist Monk in Mandalay Hill, Myanmar

The Pagoda on top of Mandalay Hill, Myanamar

Mandalay Hill, Myanmar

Mandalay Royal Palace: The Mandalay Palace has been rebuilt since it was damaged from the WWII, but is still worth a visit if you wish to gain an insight of how royal life was back then. Photo Tip: Climb the stairs of the stupa on the left of the palace and you will be rewarded with a stunning view of the site!

A view of the Royal Palace in Mandalay, Myanmar

Inside the Royal Palace in Mandalay, Myanmar

Wedding couple in traditional dresses, posing at the Royal Place, Mandalay, Myanmar

Wedding couple wearing traditional clothes, posing at the Royal Palace, Mandalay, Myanmar

Shwenandaw Kyaung Monastery: Another must see in my opinion. Built in fine teak is famous for his carvings of the past life-stories of Buddha. It was once part of the royal palace, precisely this was supposed to be the royal apartment of King Mindon, until King Thibaw decided to move it outside of the royal complex. This monastery survived the WWII bombing, which destroyed the other monasteries that were inside the Royal Palace…

Shwenandaw Kyaung teak monastery in Mandalay, Myanmar

Mahamuni Paya: Worthwhile a visit as it hosts the famous giant seated Buddha, which has become the nationally celebrated Buddha image. I didn’t get the chance to visit this but I have heard that every morning at 4am a polishing ceremony of the Buddha Face is held…it must have been quite magical!

Ubein Bridge in Amarapura , at Sunrise:

Most tours include a sunset stop at the attractive wooden Ubein Bridge in Amarapura that comes together with a visit to the 3 ancient cities near Mandalay during the daytime.
But I preferred to see the sunrise instead: first of al as there are only locals tourists, monks and workers crossing the bridge. We hired a private taxi for only 20000k who waited for us about 2hrs.
Buddhist chants made the experience very mistycal, . we walked on the bridge and back when it was still dark, and slowly as the light was coming out we could see the bodies and faces that were populating the bridge.

3 Ancient Cities Tour:

Amarapura, Sagaing and Inwa have all once been burmese capitals. If you hire a motorbike you can visit them by yourself although going on a minitour will save you time and money. A tour can be booked at your hotel, they are around $18 included lunch&water. You will also have to purchase a combo ticket for 10.000k to enter various religious sites. It lasts a week and includes also the entrance to the Royal Palace. I enjoyed our tour guide Ian from historicmandalay@gmail.com 09797523384.

Where to Stay:

We stayed at the Hotel Victory Point t.084642211 in central Mandalay, very near the Railway station at the corner between 81st and 30st. Booked through Agoda, we seemed to have got a very good deal for $30 a night for a double bedroom with a big window, private bathroom, tv and coffee,continental breakfast included. The hotel features also a roof top with 2 small swimming pools where you can chill by day and enjoy a small folk show at night, at the time we went it was pretty empty but it’s still nice to have the option!

Where to eat:

Just a little further in 81st up between the 30 and 29th street you will find a street food restaurant called Sha ma man with very good and cheap local food. In 30st the chinese family owned Aung Restaurant is also a good choice.

Taxi drivers:

You will most probably need a taxi at some point as Mandalay is bigger than what you may think, we were very happy with Zin Ko 09797489249 or Mazinga, as many Italian tourists call him, he jokes! Koko is also a very affordable taxi driver 0933846114.

Which Bus to get from Mandalay to Bagan?

There are different bus company operating, most of them offering minibuses which take about 4-5hrs. If you wish to stay more comfortable you can book a big bus with Shwe Mann Thu 02 22365. Their bus that leaves at 7.30am, it will take around 8 hrs but it is a nice drive through the countryside.

TO BE CONTINUED ASAP, PLEASE STAY IN TOUCH!

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August 23, 2015 by Marta Demartini

ENJOY MY NEW FINE ART COLLECTION OF LIGURIA, THE ITALIAN REGION OF PESTO AND CINQUE TERRE

ItalyItal

I have been living in London for over ten years now, but as they say, home is always home! Throughout these years I was asked many times where about I am coming from in Italy and I was surprised at how many people still haven’t heard of, or visited, Liguria, my region. To some of them it rings the bell if I mention Cristoforo Colombo, or Green Pesto Sauce, or Cinque Terre and Portofino, but no, they have never been. From lost inland villages to world famous seaside towns, Liguria is a pearl in the Mediterranean with many places and interesting life stories that are still waiting to be discovered. As I plunge in a totally different culture and environment here in London, whenever I go back to Liguria I can see places with “fresh” eyes, this allows me to capture otherwise unnoticed details and moments of life across the region. I decided to start a new fine art collection by gathering the most significant images taken so far. I have many photos to go through still and I am looking to expand the gallery during my visits back home, please stay connected to view more interesting and unusual corners of Liguria!

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January 4, 2015 by Marta Demartini

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM! Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City: Highlights

As many of you knows my partner and I commit ourselves to a 3-4 weeks trip every year to refresh our mind and body from all the year round work. This year I decided to share our trip to Vietnam with you, hoping that you find our adventures inspiring and that you will gain new insight of a fabulous country that is often remembered for the atrocity of the wars with little focus on its beautiful hard working population. Starting our trip from Ho Chi Min CIty (ex Saigon)…

We arrived early in the morning from Bangkok and booked a taxi to our hotel Ava Saigon 3, located in the City Centre, very close to District 1 and the back packer hotel area.

We were looking for a midrange hotel and found a very good deal on bookings.com the day before, we are very satisfied with both the location and the staff. The rooms are clean, they come with a safe, air conditioning, tv and free wi-fi. Some of them come with a bath tub opposite to the standard shower. Included in the price is breakfast and a small set of daily laundry.

Home to over 7 million people HCMC is the second biggest metropolis of the Mekong Region after Bangkok. It is a fully buzzing city with 5 million motorbikes dominating the street scene, which actually makes it a nightmare to cross the main roads, given the fact that there are very few pedestrian traffic light systems!

On our first day we decided to take a stroll in the centre while making our way to visit the very interesting Ho Chi Minh museum, dedicated to the life of their so much respected president after which Saigon was renamed as Ho Chi Minh.

From the Museum, you can enjoy a good view of District 1 across the Saigon river, probably the most developed part in HCMC

After the visit we walked back to the streets of the city centre and stopped for a snack in a local vegetarian restaurant, it seemed a pretty cosy local place where to stop by and we were not disappointed at all! The Than Tinh, is run by husband and wife of 14 years, Danh and Lan. She is a bubbly lady that gave up working for corporate and banks after many years and put her heart into her own new business, inspired by her father being a vegetarian. Lan makes also marvellous embroidery in her spare time as gifts for family and friends, she proudly showed a framed one on their restaurant walls and another one on progress! We felt so much welcomed by such a lovely couple, we strongly suggest you to stop by if you go to HCMC! Everything they cook is taken great care and we got treated like kings! Prices were also very reasonable, with one full meal + beverage for only 105.000 dong.

The afternoon of our day 2 was spent first visiting the Reunification Palace, the former Independence Palace where in 1975 the Liberation Army’s tanks crashed through the main gates forcing the south vietnamese government to surrender. This year the Vietnamese will celebrate their 40th Anniversary from the Reunification.

A much longer visit (that I strongly suggest) was at the War Remnant Museum, that collects all the brutalities of the Vietnam War through a wide documentation of images and facts mainly provided by the US but that are not all known in the Western World. It was very upsetting to gain knowledge about the atrocities that the Vietnamese were put through, from the massacre of the civilians to the poisonous chemical agents released on their soil, to the demonstrations of solidarity that came from all over the world on those years to stop the war, after and during the visit we could see many sad faces around, but I believe it is an eye opener that you shouldn’t miss on your trip to Vietnam.

Luckily the Vietnamese’s tenacity is driving their country forward and when you are outside the museum life goes on for the people who have been experiencing a few very prosperous decades thanks to strategic commercial union with other Asian Countries as well as the World Trade Organisation.

As the sun set we were a few streets away to book our tickets for the Water Puppet Show, this is another must see to understand the Agricultural life of Vietnam. Water Puppets shows are a very ancient form of entertainment used by the villagers during the flooding of the rice fields, in which time they couldn’t work. The show lasts 50 mins and there’s an option to have a buffet dinner afterwards, which we don’t suggest..there are plenty more fresher food options out there!

On our day 3 we did a deeper exploration into Ho Chi Minh services and found some very good value for money places that I would like to suggest to you as well:

-We had our typhoid vaccination (simply because we couldn’t find a suitable day back in London) for only 160.000 d (about GBP 5.00) at the local Vien Pasteur Vaccination Clinic which was suggested to us by our hotel staff. To reach the clinique you have to walk to the very end of Pasteur and turn left, then left again, it is the first building. This was especially an impressive experience, the injection was quick and easy and the doctors where friendly, I believe if you get your injections at the international clinics you may have to pay much more…while this clinic is completely run by the vietnamese and serve the vietnamese…have we been too adventurous..?

If you happen to go there you MUST stop at the very traditional and excellent value for money vietnamese local restaurant called Pho Hoa Pasteur, where you can taste one of the best soups in the whole city! For what you see in the photo totals about 140.000d…£4.50.We found it by pure luck as looking for a shelter from a 15 mins shower while walking to the clinic and now I am finding out it is listed in most travel blogs from lonely planet to trip advisor, how lucky!! And oh…this is where I have learnt to eat pho with sticks and spoon he hey!!

Pasteur is a very developed street with good shops and places to eat. If you feel like pampering yourself to a premium haircut experience you can try the Nano Nature Hairdressing and spa place. We were very impressed with the service here. They cut your hair first and then they take you upstairs for a sublime shampoo with facial and head massage while you lay down into a dim light room with ambient music..all this for 350.000d for ladies and 280.000d for men. Feeling very stylish afterwards!

Want more pampering at a very good value for money? Try also the Vietnamese Traditional Massage Institute, located in Cong Quynh it is a no frills place run by trained blind masseurs, it is a great way to help the community. A full body massage of 1 hr for only 60.000d..GBP 2.00..of course we did tip the masseurs as we felt terribly guilty for paying so little for such hard work!

Walking up in Cong Quynh just a few meters away is another typical real vietnamese restaurant, the busy Dinh Y, where you can have a great selection of traditional dishes and even soups cooked at your table! Very good value for money also.

We spent our last day in Ho Chi Minh City visiting the main Market and the Dong Khoi Area, the richest spot in the city…

Shopping windows in the Dong Khoi area, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

We noticed that in some of the parks there was a selection of basic gym equipment and so we stopped off for a few minutes to tone up!

The Ben Thanh Market is a big shopping centre dedicated to everyday items such as clothes and food as well the tourists goods, from colorful lampshades to premium quality coffee. The traders can be very insisting, if you are up for buying anything you should bargain as otherwise they will charge you a lot more!

Inside the Ben Thanh Market, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

We’ve sampled some lovely pho’s and fresh fruit juices here before heading to the Dong Khoi to visit the Notre Dame Cathedral, that was built by the French during their colony in the 1800s.

Dong Khoi Area Notre Dame, Post Office and Opera, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

It’s 3.30 pm and our belly says…Lunch time!

Today, as in other occasions, we followed one of the lonely planet advices on places to eat and we headed to the Nua Hang Ngon Restaurant in Pasteur, very near the Notre Dame Cathedral. The restaurant features impressive interiors with a fountain in the middle and it’s excellent value for money 🙂 Hey, for those of you that are in a relationship..you should take your partner here for a romantic evening meal 🙂

The restaurant is also sharing some space to street stalls, situated by the sides, if you prefer you can sample some of their food as a take away option

Ho Chi Minh, Nha Hang Ngon Restaurant in Pasteur

It’s now 4.30 pm and we don’t want to miss the sunset on the Saigonskydeck, on top of the Bitexco Financial Tower, listed as one of the top 20 building icons in the whole world!

Ho Chi Minh Ski Deck Bitexco Financial Tower

It was built in 2010 and is 262m high, you can go all the way up to the 48^th floor to enjoy a full 360 degree panorama, absolutely stunning! I strongly suggest to go around 5 pm so you can see the sun setting over the city skyline and stay for a bit longer to admire the million lights that switch on the city at night. It cost s 200.000d to get up there but it is well worthwhile. For an ultimate lunch or drink you can pop at the 50st floor (the view doesn’t get any better but you can have a dinner in style dominating the city from here)

Sunset view of Ho Chi Minh City skyline from the Ski Deck Bitexco Financial Tower

Breathtaking night view of Ho Chi Minh City from Ski Deck Bitexco Financial Tower

We ended up our last night strolling in the busy Bui Vien, at the heart of the so called backpacker’s area. If you feel a bit homesick you can hang around here and meet fellow foreigners, there are restaurant serving European food although we found this area a bit expensive.

Ho Chi Minh City nightlife in Bui Vien, in the so called backpacker’s area

A restaurant that you don’t want to miss here is the Five Oysters, a small but busy place on two floors, the athmosphere is warm and the stuff very friendly, and yes an excellent food is serve at a good rate. We tried oysters for starter and a steamed shark for main, tasty and delicate!

Ho Chi Minh City, The Five Oysters Restaurant in Bui Vien, the heart of the so called backpacker’s area.

Ok, our stay in HCMC has come to an end, but please keep following us on our next journey to the fascinating Mekong Delta…..See you soon!

Marta&Hugh

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January 4, 2015 by Marta Demartini

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM! Mekong Delta Highlights

Welcome to the second part of our trip to Vietnam!

From the busy and chaotic Ho Chi Minh City we decided to explore the Mekong Delta, having only a few spare days available and having heard of the home stay options in the Islands across Vinh Long we opted for one of those.

HCMC to Vinh Long tract is only possible by bus and it takes about 3hrs: we asked our friendly hotel staff to book us 2 tickets on the day before. There are a few different bus companies operating long distance connections in Vietnam, our hotel is affiliated with the Phuong Trang.

Transportation costs: taxi from the hotel to the Phuong Trang Bus Station 100.000d, bus to Vinh Long 115.000d, taxi from Vinh Long Bus Station to the ferry 60.000d.(if you are quick enough when you get off the bus in Vinh Long a free shuttle service will take you to the ferry..if we only new!)

Frequent run ferry that connects Vinh Long to the Islands, 5 minutes ride only!

At the other side of the ferry we prearranged to get picked up by the staff of our home stay, which we found on ebookings for a very good deal of 440.000d per night for a double room.

Phuong Thao Homestay in An Binh Island, Vinh Long, Vietnam

The Phuong Thao homestay is set in An Binh Island, a few kilometres from the ferry crossing point, in a peaceful part far away from shops and noises. They are fairly new having opened only last year, but the owner, Phuong, is going that extra mile to help you have the best holiday possible in the area. They have dorm beds as well as double rooms all set in a large sized hut with spacious verandas outside where you can lounge on hammocks and take in the peace that the island can offer.

A double room with private bathroom at the Phuong Thao Homestay, An Binh Island, Vinh Long, Vietnam

The verandas also serve as breakfast and dining areas. Breakfast is included within the room price. For the lunch and dinner they have a choice of 7 set menus priced between 200.000 and 300.000d per couple. The latter will surely fill you up!

A 300.000d set menu at Phuong Thao Homestay, served by very friendly staff

As part of the stay you can also use their brand new bicycles for a ride around the islands…we can’t wait!!!!

Homestay’s owner Phuong setting his new bicycles up.

The Phuong Thao offers 2 different tours along the Mekong Delta and its backwaters, for only 300.000d per person per tour. Each tour runs for about 3 hrs and as it takes you on different activities, I’d suggest you to do both!

We jumped on a cosy traditional styled boat that had been hired just for the Phuong Thao homestay and we started our journey through the famous waters of one of the biggest river deltas in the world! How exciting!!

A small tour boat on the River Mekong

The Mekong with its tributaries and the numerous canals are the main transport network here as well as representing many of the inhabitants ‘workplace’ too! Many families here live on stilt houses, or on their trading boats

Houses on stilt along the Mekong Delta backwaters

It seems a journey into the past and these houses may remind you of thirld world countries, but Vietnamese in this area are fast developing thanks to their pride and tenacity that distinguishes them from other asian countries and despite their no frills lifestyle you can find much dignity, in fact we haven’t come across any child nor adult begging for money or food, which from a westerner point of view it makes them even more respectable. Aren’t they fascinating?

The Mekong Delta’s backwaters and its people, Vietnam

Vietnamese lady smiling at tourists in the Mekong Delta

The Mekong Delta and its people, Vietnam

The Mekong Delta’s backwaters and its people, Vietnam

On this trip boat, we visited a flower pottery making factory, met a family that works in the rice fields (well…not today!!) and learnt about roof weaving before we headed back to the hotel by sunset time.

Life in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Day 2 started at 6.30 am with the second tour, that took us to see the Cai Be floating and village market. Workers rise at dawn to make the best of their trading day.

Floating Market and the trade Market in the village at Cai Be, Vietnam

After wondering about the market and sampling their fruit and vegetable snacks we were taken on a truly refreshing 30 mins ride on one of their traditional rowing boats along the narrow and peaceful canals, far away from the buzz, where you can really breath in the nature of the jungle..gorgeous!

Rowing boat trip in the canals of the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

On our last stop before heading back we learnt a bit more about the activities down the River Delta, including coconut candy making, rice paper and yes snake spirits! By the way, did you know that a snake venom serum can work as a potent anti-inflammatory for muscular pain?!

Life and work in the Mekong Delta

As you can see there’s a lot to see and learn down here! But our day has not yet finished! After an abundant lunch and a siesta on the hammock of our home stay we went for our afternoon cycle adventure to discover the island on our own!

Cycling around the Islands in Vinh Long, Mekong Delta

With only a sketch drawn map of the suggested roads we enjoyed the ride through the orchards and scattered shops of the island, finding relatively easy our way back before the sunset. The ride was so much fun, you can’t miss that from you to do list and despite that none of the villagers speaks English we managed to stop for coffees and snacks at the cheapest ever prices, collecting some genuine smiles from the inhabitants that are slowly getting used to having tourists about.

Life and places in An Binh Island, Vinh Long, Vietnam

Only a few shops selling basic stuff including an internet point can be found in the island, for everything major like clothing, electrical appliances and fresh food you will have to go to Vinh Long…

Our next move is to the tropical island of Phu Quoc, quite a journey by land from here as you need to travel by bus to Rach Gia or Ha Tien and then get a ferry, but it is advisable to book the bus and ferry tickets at least one or two days in advance in this season.

In fact we missed our next day boat (if we only knew!!) so we stayed an extra day here and that gave us a chance to visit the bustling town of Vinh Long

Fruit,vegetable and skinned frogs at the trading market in Vinh Long, Mekong Delta

Vinh Long is home to only 130.000 people but its main streets around the ferry dock can be pretty busy. After all it is an important trading town of the Southern area of Vietnam.

We stopped for a filling Pho (typical soup of South Vietnamese cuisine) at one of the street stalls, run by friendly family of mother son and daughter, with the young son being the English proud speaker and translator for all the stalls nearby. We must have been their highlight of the day as all the tourist seem to be on the islands. His English was very basic but nonetheless we set each other for some good laughs, something that is becoming more and more rare between complete strangers in the western world…

By the ferry dock you can also find the Cuulong travel tours, pop inside for some more info on what you can do in this area, including visiting different home stays and spending a night on a converted rice barge while traveling between Can Tho and Cai Be…a bit too far from our budget but if you can afford it more power to you!

The world is small even on the Mekong Delta!

Unbelievable! We went for our last cycle ride after visiting Vinh Long and miles away from our home stay we stopped for a refreshing drink in one of those family run shops…two men were sitting outside, as everyone on the Island they were non english speakers but in these days we are so excited that we could have a conversation with a plant, so we start making signs to communicate fatigue from bike riding and the joy of sipping a fresh drink…when one of them point out a sitar..we understand that they play together and with our astonishment they mention an upcoming performance at the Phuong Homestay for the night…that’s where we stay too!!! Our journey in the Mekong Delta couldn’t have had a better ending.

Life Music at Phuong Thao Homestay, Mekong Delta

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January 4, 2015 by Marta Demartini

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM! Phu Quoc Paradise Island

View of Long Beach on Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Welcome to the most hidden gem of Vietnam! Have you ever recalled yourself thinking “I wish to be lounging on a fringed palm light coloured sand charming and relaxing tropical Island? That Island is Phu Quoc. Home to less than 100.000 people and covering an area of 574 sqkm, you can rest assured to find your own little paradise corner here!

OK, maybe is not as stunning as the Maldives, but if you are planning a trip to Vietnam and would like to include some serious sunbathing into your holiday you have to come here! As I watched through the ferry boat window while approaching to the docking area I was welcomed by a gorgeous deserted strip of fringed palm and golden sand (Vong Beach) that immediately put a smile on my face as well as awakening that inner sense of discovery that I suppose is still largely present in most human beings behaviour..

Off we go on the mainland where shuttle buses take you to your hotel destination for around 50.000d. (Ferries from Rach Gia reaches the Vong Bao dock in 2.5 hours, it costs 350.000d,but book at least one day in advance as they may get full in peak season)

Our hotel, the Thai Tan Tien Resort, is located on the “crowdiest” beach of the Island (later I will show you what it means “crowdy” beach in Phu Quoc!) called Long Beach, as it stretches south for a few kilometers from the main town of Duong Dong. We found it through bookings for 30$/night considering that it comes with its own private beach and we are very happy with it. Each bungalow has wi-fi, a private balcony, a minibar, a mosquito net over the bed, a private bathroom and a small table. Amongst the resort services you can have your laundry done within the day for 30.000d/kilo, rent motorbikes for 150.000d a day or book a daily tour for about 20$.

The Thai Tan Tien Resort, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Breakfast is included and is served in the beach hotel restaurant. Don’t expect a great deal on that but the view balances that out…

Oh, being Long Beach settled on the western side of the island you can enjoy a gorgeous sunset too around 5.30pm….we are absolutely mind blown!

Sunset time on Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Duong Dong town

The main town in the Island is just a few kilometers north from our resort which can be a great commodity as the rest of the island is not very much developed.

We had a stroll around the town on our second day and we actually found that it can be a fairly busy place that can well reflect the buzz in the main land.

Duong Dong Town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

The calm river cuts across the town and if you walk over the bridge on the left hand side you will find a very busy local market where you can feel the conservative and yet communal side of the vietnamese

Duong Dong River cuts through the town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Local market in Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

And yes, we found out that Vietnamese get married any day of the week! Congratulations!

Wedding in Duong Dong Town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

One of the highlights of Duong Dong is surely the night market, opened from 5pm to midnight, in the town centre. Here you can get your souvenirs and have a good value for money sit down meal. Great grilled fish and soups are very tasty.

Night market in Duong Dong Town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

If you feel like having a good coffee and cake to complete your meal try the Buddy Ice Cream, located just at the end of the market, they not only serve the best ice creams but they host a well of information on the island. It’s a traveller’s modern cafes with free internet and a helpful staff. Good to keep in mind!

Buddy Ice Cream Cafe in Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Taxis are always around when you need them, so not worry if you stay outside Duong Dong area! We were told the cheapest meter taxi company is called Phu Quoc..

Phu Quoc Taxi Company,Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Lounge, Lounge and …..Lounge!

Enjoying the sea waves on the Long Beach shore,Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Good Morning World!

Welcome to Long Beach in Phu Quoc. This morning we enjoyed a long walk along our beach coastline, realizing how quiet it can be despite being considered the busiest strip of beach on the island.

Long Beach on Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Today we have decided to explore a bit more of the island and its wild deserted beaches that we’ve heard of on the book guides..the best way to do it is indeed by renting a motorbike and just wander off…for 150.000d you can have one for a whole day and if you ask for a detailed map at the hotel all you need is a towel and some sun protection cream!

There are only a few roads that cut through the island, with other coastal or connecting tracks covered on red dust, ideal for a jeep but with a bit of caution you can ride along with a moped too!

We headed north of Duong Dong on the main road and turned left in Cua Can village, to follow a dusty coastal road along Vung Bau Beach. It was fun to ride through what is a far from developed area, coming across strips of beaches left at their wildest and enjoy the tropical landscape with only a few other human being encounterings, it gave us a sense of immense freedom! There are only a couple of resorts in Vung Bau, everything else is just nature and some dotted huts inhabited by the locals..

Deserted beaches near Vung Bao, in the northern part of Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Vung Bao Beach, Phu Quoc Island. Vietnam

An Thoi Archipelago

On our last day we took a tour to visit the An Thoi Islands, off the southern tip of Phu Quoc. They are almost all deserted and apparently the only way to visit them is by joining of of the fishing and snorkelling tours offered by most of the hotels.This is so fascinating!

The tour is $25 dollars per person for a full day including a generous vietnamese lunch on the boat. The young tour guide was fun and open to questions. We understood that Phu Quoc has been well noticed by major investors and they will soon turn the southern part of the island into an upmarket holiday destination by 2020…Driving on the way to the An Thoi port we could actually have a vague perception on the level of work that its getting done in order to transform Phu Quoc…which means saying goodbye soon to wild beaches and scattered huts….I feel lucky that we had the chance to enjoy the rural side of Phu Quoc this year!

a major development is taking place in the southern part of Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

On the same road we stopped to visit the Ngoc Hien Pearl Factory, the only true pearl workshop in the island that is supervised by Japanese experts that control the cultivation of pearl. Other factories unfortunately sell counterfeit pearls, so please keep this in mind! At the workshop we learnt that a the value of a pearl is based on it perfect round shape, rarity in colour and shines and it is not easy to have this combination even in a pearl farm, let alone find a good pearl in the sea…

I am not a jewellery shopper but I have to admit that I found the whole thing very fascinating..and I wasn’t going to buy anything until the lady at the counter mentioned “present for mum?” in her primitive english…that was it!

Ngoc Hien Pearl Factory in Phu Quoc Island

The island tour was fun and very relaxing at the same time, as we lounged on the top boat deck chairs on a hot sunny day, here are some hints of the islands and its locals…

An Thoi Islands, Phi Quoc, Vietnam

On the way back we were taken to visit beautiful white sanded Sao Beach, which is said to be the most attractive beach on the island, on the south eastern side. Oh, what a wonderful day!

Sao beach in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

We are really sad to leave all this beauty behind, if I can give you an advice I would say don’t rush in here, allow to treat your body and mind for at least a week in Paradise!

On our next move we will be heading to Hoi An, the Unesco World Heritage ancient town that survived the Vietnam wars..stay tuned with us!

Marta&Hugh