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GOOD MORNING VIETNAM! Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City: Highlights

As many of you knows my partner and I commit ourselves to a 3-4 weeks trip every year to refresh our mind and body from all the year round work. This year I decided to share our trip to Vietnam with you, hoping that you find our adventures inspiring and that you will gain new insight of a fabulous country that is often remembered for the atrocity of the wars with little focus on its beautiful hard working population. Starting our trip from Ho Chi Min CIty (ex Saigon)…

We arrived early in the morning from Bangkok and booked a taxi to our hotel Ava Saigon 3, located in the City Centre, very close to District 1 and the back packer hotel area.

We were looking for a midrange hotel and found a very good deal on bookings.com the day before, we are very satisfied with both the location and the staff. The rooms are clean, they come with a safe, air conditioning, tv and free wi-fi. Some of them come with a bath tub opposite to the standard shower. Included in the price is breakfast and a small set of daily laundry.

Home to over 7 million people HCMC is the second biggest metropolis of the Mekong Region after Bangkok. It is a fully buzzing city with 5 million motorbikes dominating the street scene, which actually makes it a nightmare to cross the main roads, given the fact that there are very few pedestrian traffic light systems!

On our first day we decided to take a stroll in the centre while making our way to visit the very interesting Ho Chi Minh museum, dedicated to the life of their so much respected president after which Saigon was renamed as Ho Chi Minh.

From the Museum, you can enjoy a good view of District 1 across the Saigon river, probably the most developed part in HCMC

After the visit we walked back to the streets of the city centre and stopped for a snack in a local vegetarian restaurant, it seemed a pretty cosy local place where to stop by and we were not disappointed at all! The Than Tinh, is run by husband and wife of 14 years, Danh and Lan. She is a bubbly lady that gave up working for corporate and banks after many years and put her heart into her own new business, inspired by her father being a vegetarian. Lan makes also marvellous embroidery in her spare time as gifts for family and friends, she proudly showed a framed one on their restaurant walls and another one on progress! We felt so much welcomed by such a lovely couple, we strongly suggest you to stop by if you go to HCMC! Everything they cook is taken great care and we got treated like kings! Prices were also very reasonable, with one full meal + beverage for only 105.000 dong.

The afternoon of our day 2 was spent first visiting the Reunification Palace, the former Independence Palace where in 1975 the Liberation Army’s tanks crashed through the main gates forcing the south vietnamese government to surrender. This year the Vietnamese will celebrate their 40th Anniversary from the Reunification.

A much longer visit (that I strongly suggest) was at the War Remnant Museum, that collects all the brutalities of the Vietnam War through a wide documentation of images and facts mainly provided by the US but that are not all known in the Western World. It was very upsetting to gain knowledge about the atrocities that the Vietnamese were put through, from the massacre of the civilians to the poisonous chemical agents released on their soil, to the demonstrations of solidarity that came from all over the world on those years to stop the war, after and during the visit we could see many sad faces around, but I believe it is an eye opener that you shouldn’t miss on your trip to Vietnam.

Luckily the Vietnamese’s tenacity is driving their country forward and when you are outside the museum life goes on for the people who have been experiencing a few very prosperous decades thanks to strategic commercial union with other Asian Countries as well as the World Trade Organisation.

As the sun set we were a few streets away to book our tickets for the Water Puppet Show, this is another must see to understand the Agricultural life of Vietnam. Water Puppets shows are a very ancient form of entertainment used by the villagers during the flooding of the rice fields, in which time they couldn’t work. The show lasts 50 mins and there’s an option to have a buffet dinner afterwards, which we don’t suggest..there are plenty more fresher food options out there!

On our day 3 we did a deeper exploration into Ho Chi Minh services and found some very good value for money places that I would like to suggest to you as well:

-We had our typhoid vaccination (simply because we couldn’t find a suitable day back in London) for only 160.000 d (about GBP 5.00) at the local Vien Pasteur Vaccination Clinic which was suggested to us by our hotel staff. To reach the clinique you have to walk to the very end of Pasteur and turn left, then left again, it is the first building. This was especially an impressive experience, the injection was quick and easy and the doctors where friendly, I believe if you get your injections at the international clinics you may have to pay much more…while this clinic is completely run by the vietnamese and serve the vietnamese…have we been too adventurous..?

If you happen to go there you MUST stop at the very traditional and excellent value for money vietnamese local restaurant called Pho Hoa Pasteur, where you can taste one of the best soups in the whole city! For what you see in the photo totals about 140.000d…£4.50.We found it by pure luck as looking for a shelter from a 15 mins shower while walking to the clinic and now I am finding out it is listed in most travel blogs from lonely planet to trip advisor, how lucky!! And oh…this is where I have learnt to eat pho with sticks and spoon he hey!!

Pasteur is a very developed street with good shops and places to eat. If you feel like pampering yourself to a premium haircut experience you can try the Nano Nature Hairdressing and spa place. We were very impressed with the service here. They cut your hair first and then they take you upstairs for a sublime shampoo with facial and head massage while you lay down into a dim light room with ambient music..all this for 350.000d for ladies and 280.000d for men. Feeling very stylish afterwards!

Want more pampering at a very good value for money? Try also the Vietnamese Traditional Massage Institute, located in Cong Quynh it is a no frills place run by trained blind masseurs, it is a great way to help the community. A full body massage of 1 hr for only 60.000d..GBP 2.00..of course we did tip the masseurs as we felt terribly guilty for paying so little for such hard work!

Walking up in Cong Quynh just a few meters away is another typical real vietnamese restaurant, the busy Dinh Y, where you can have a great selection of traditional dishes and even soups cooked at your table! Very good value for money also.

We spent our last day in Ho Chi Minh City visiting the main Market and the Dong Khoi Area, the richest spot in the city…

Shopping windows in the Dong Khoi area, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

We noticed that in some of the parks there was a selection of basic gym equipment and so we stopped off for a few minutes to tone up!

The Ben Thanh Market is a big shopping centre dedicated to everyday items such as clothes and food as well the tourists goods, from colorful lampshades to premium quality coffee. The traders can be very insisting, if you are up for buying anything you should bargain as otherwise they will charge you a lot more!

Inside the Ben Thanh Market, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

We’ve sampled some lovely pho’s and fresh fruit juices here before heading to the Dong Khoi to visit the Notre Dame Cathedral, that was built by the French during their colony in the 1800s.

Dong Khoi Area Notre Dame, Post Office and Opera, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

It’s 3.30 pm and our belly says…Lunch time!

Today, as in other occasions, we followed one of the lonely planet advices on places to eat and we headed to the Nua Hang Ngon Restaurant in Pasteur, very near the Notre Dame Cathedral. The restaurant features impressive interiors with a fountain in the middle and it’s excellent value for money 🙂 Hey, for those of you that are in a relationship..you should take your partner here for a romantic evening meal 🙂

The restaurant is also sharing some space to street stalls, situated by the sides, if you prefer you can sample some of their food as a take away option

Ho Chi Minh, Nha Hang Ngon Restaurant in Pasteur

It’s now 4.30 pm and we don’t want to miss the sunset on the Saigonskydeck, on top of the Bitexco Financial Tower, listed as one of the top 20 building icons in the whole world!

Ho Chi Minh Ski Deck Bitexco Financial Tower

It was built in 2010 and is 262m high, you can go all the way up to the 48^th floor to enjoy a full 360 degree panorama, absolutely stunning! I strongly suggest to go around 5 pm so you can see the sun setting over the city skyline and stay for a bit longer to admire the million lights that switch on the city at night. It cost s 200.000d to get up there but it is well worthwhile. For an ultimate lunch or drink you can pop at the 50st floor (the view doesn’t get any better but you can have a dinner in style dominating the city from here)

Sunset view of Ho Chi Minh City skyline from the Ski Deck Bitexco Financial Tower

Breathtaking night view of Ho Chi Minh City from Ski Deck Bitexco Financial Tower

We ended up our last night strolling in the busy Bui Vien, at the heart of the so called backpacker’s area. If you feel a bit homesick you can hang around here and meet fellow foreigners, there are restaurant serving European food although we found this area a bit expensive.

Ho Chi Minh City nightlife in Bui Vien, in the so called backpacker’s area

A restaurant that you don’t want to miss here is the Five Oysters, a small but busy place on two floors, the athmosphere is warm and the stuff very friendly, and yes an excellent food is serve at a good rate. We tried oysters for starter and a steamed shark for main, tasty and delicate!

Ho Chi Minh City, The Five Oysters Restaurant in Bui Vien, the heart of the so called backpacker’s area.

Ok, our stay in HCMC has come to an end, but please keep following us on our next journey to the fascinating Mekong Delta…..See you soon!

Marta&Hugh

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM! Mekong Delta Highlights

Welcome to the second part of our trip to Vietnam!

From the busy and chaotic Ho Chi Minh City we decided to explore the Mekong Delta, having only a few spare days available and having heard of the home stay options in the Islands across Vinh Long we opted for one of those.

HCMC to Vinh Long tract is only possible by bus and it takes about 3hrs: we asked our friendly hotel staff to book us 2 tickets on the day before. There are a few different bus companies operating long distance connections in Vietnam, our hotel is affiliated with the Phuong Trang.

Transportation costs: taxi from the hotel to the Phuong Trang Bus Station 100.000d, bus to Vinh Long 115.000d, taxi from Vinh Long Bus Station to the ferry 60.000d.(if you are quick enough when you get off the bus in Vinh Long a free shuttle service will take you to the ferry..if we only new!)

Frequent run ferry that connects Vinh Long to the Islands, 5 minutes ride only!

At the other side of the ferry we prearranged to get picked up by the staff of our home stay, which we found on ebookings for a very good deal of 440.000d per night for a double room.

Phuong Thao Homestay in An Binh Island, Vinh Long, Vietnam

The Phuong Thao homestay is set in An Binh Island, a few kilometres from the ferry crossing point, in a peaceful part far away from shops and noises. They are fairly new having opened only last year, but the owner, Phuong, is going that extra mile to help you have the best holiday possible in the area. They have dorm beds as well as double rooms all set in a large sized hut with spacious verandas outside where you can lounge on hammocks and take in the peace that the island can offer.

A double room with private bathroom at the Phuong Thao Homestay, An Binh Island, Vinh Long, Vietnam

The verandas also serve as breakfast and dining areas. Breakfast is included within the room price. For the lunch and dinner they have a choice of 7 set menus priced between 200.000 and 300.000d per couple. The latter will surely fill you up!

A 300.000d set menu at Phuong Thao Homestay, served by very friendly staff

As part of the stay you can also use their brand new bicycles for a ride around the islands…we can’t wait!!!!

Homestay’s owner Phuong setting his new bicycles up.

The Phuong Thao offers 2 different tours along the Mekong Delta and its backwaters, for only 300.000d per person per tour. Each tour runs for about 3 hrs and as it takes you on different activities, I’d suggest you to do both!

We jumped on a cosy traditional styled boat that had been hired just for the Phuong Thao homestay and we started our journey through the famous waters of one of the biggest river deltas in the world! How exciting!!

A small tour boat on the River Mekong

The Mekong with its tributaries and the numerous canals are the main transport network here as well as representing many of the inhabitants ‘workplace’ too! Many families here live on stilt houses, or on their trading boats

Houses on stilt along the Mekong Delta backwaters

It seems a journey into the past and these houses may remind you of thirld world countries, but Vietnamese in this area are fast developing thanks to their pride and tenacity that distinguishes them from other asian countries and despite their no frills lifestyle you can find much dignity, in fact we haven’t come across any child nor adult begging for money or food, which from a westerner point of view it makes them even more respectable. Aren’t they fascinating?

The Mekong Delta’s backwaters and its people, Vietnam

Vietnamese lady smiling at tourists in the Mekong Delta

The Mekong Delta and its people, Vietnam

The Mekong Delta’s backwaters and its people, Vietnam

On this trip boat, we visited a flower pottery making factory, met a family that works in the rice fields (well…not today!!) and learnt about roof weaving before we headed back to the hotel by sunset time.

Life in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Day 2 started at 6.30 am with the second tour, that took us to see the Cai Be floating and village market. Workers rise at dawn to make the best of their trading day.

Floating Market and the trade Market in the village at Cai Be, Vietnam

After wondering about the market and sampling their fruit and vegetable snacks we were taken on a truly refreshing 30 mins ride on one of their traditional rowing boats along the narrow and peaceful canals, far away from the buzz, where you can really breath in the nature of the jungle..gorgeous!

Rowing boat trip in the canals of the Mekong Delta, Vietnam

On our last stop before heading back we learnt a bit more about the activities down the River Delta, including coconut candy making, rice paper and yes snake spirits! By the way, did you know that a snake venom serum can work as a potent anti-inflammatory for muscular pain?!

Life and work in the Mekong Delta

As you can see there’s a lot to see and learn down here! But our day has not yet finished! After an abundant lunch and a siesta on the hammock of our home stay we went for our afternoon cycle adventure to discover the island on our own!

Cycling around the Islands in Vinh Long, Mekong Delta

With only a sketch drawn map of the suggested roads we enjoyed the ride through the orchards and scattered shops of the island, finding relatively easy our way back before the sunset. The ride was so much fun, you can’t miss that from you to do list and despite that none of the villagers speaks English we managed to stop for coffees and snacks at the cheapest ever prices, collecting some genuine smiles from the inhabitants that are slowly getting used to having tourists about.

Life and places in An Binh Island, Vinh Long, Vietnam

Only a few shops selling basic stuff including an internet point can be found in the island, for everything major like clothing, electrical appliances and fresh food you will have to go to Vinh Long…

Our next move is to the tropical island of Phu Quoc, quite a journey by land from here as you need to travel by bus to Rach Gia or Ha Tien and then get a ferry, but it is advisable to book the bus and ferry tickets at least one or two days in advance in this season.

In fact we missed our next day boat (if we only knew!!) so we stayed an extra day here and that gave us a chance to visit the bustling town of Vinh Long

Fruit,vegetable and skinned frogs at the trading market in Vinh Long, Mekong Delta

Vinh Long is home to only 130.000 people but its main streets around the ferry dock can be pretty busy. After all it is an important trading town of the Southern area of Vietnam.

We stopped for a filling Pho (typical soup of South Vietnamese cuisine) at one of the street stalls, run by friendly family of mother son and daughter, with the young son being the English proud speaker and translator for all the stalls nearby. We must have been their highlight of the day as all the tourist seem to be on the islands. His English was very basic but nonetheless we set each other for some good laughs, something that is becoming more and more rare between complete strangers in the western world…

By the ferry dock you can also find the Cuulong travel tours, pop inside for some more info on what you can do in this area, including visiting different home stays and spending a night on a converted rice barge while traveling between Can Tho and Cai Be…a bit too far from our budget but if you can afford it more power to you!

The world is small even on the Mekong Delta!

Unbelievable! We went for our last cycle ride after visiting Vinh Long and miles away from our home stay we stopped for a refreshing drink in one of those family run shops…two men were sitting outside, as everyone on the Island they were non english speakers but in these days we are so excited that we could have a conversation with a plant, so we start making signs to communicate fatigue from bike riding and the joy of sipping a fresh drink…when one of them point out a sitar..we understand that they play together and with our astonishment they mention an upcoming performance at the Phuong Homestay for the night…that’s where we stay too!!! Our journey in the Mekong Delta couldn’t have had a better ending.

Life Music at Phuong Thao Homestay, Mekong Delta

GOOD MORNING VIETNAM! Phu Quoc Paradise Island

View of Long Beach on Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Welcome to the most hidden gem of Vietnam! Have you ever recalled yourself thinking “I wish to be lounging on a fringed palm light coloured sand charming and relaxing tropical Island? That Island is Phu Quoc. Home to less than 100.000 people and covering an area of 574 sqkm, you can rest assured to find your own little paradise corner here!

OK, maybe is not as stunning as the Maldives, but if you are planning a trip to Vietnam and would like to include some serious sunbathing into your holiday you have to come here! As I watched through the ferry boat window while approaching to the docking area I was welcomed by a gorgeous deserted strip of fringed palm and golden sand (Vong Beach) that immediately put a smile on my face as well as awakening that inner sense of discovery that I suppose is still largely present in most human beings behaviour..

Off we go on the mainland where shuttle buses take you to your hotel destination for around 50.000d. (Ferries from Rach Gia reaches the Vong Bao dock in 2.5 hours, it costs 350.000d,but book at least one day in advance as they may get full in peak season)

Our hotel, the Thai Tan Tien Resort, is located on the “crowdiest” beach of the Island (later I will show you what it means “crowdy” beach in Phu Quoc!) called Long Beach, as it stretches south for a few kilometers from the main town of Duong Dong. We found it through bookings for 30$/night considering that it comes with its own private beach and we are very happy with it. Each bungalow has wi-fi, a private balcony, a minibar, a mosquito net over the bed, a private bathroom and a small table. Amongst the resort services you can have your laundry done within the day for 30.000d/kilo, rent motorbikes for 150.000d a day or book a daily tour for about 20$.

The Thai Tan Tien Resort, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Breakfast is included and is served in the beach hotel restaurant. Don’t expect a great deal on that but the view balances that out…

Oh, being Long Beach settled on the western side of the island you can enjoy a gorgeous sunset too around 5.30pm….we are absolutely mind blown!

Sunset time on Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Duong Dong town

The main town in the Island is just a few kilometers north from our resort which can be a great commodity as the rest of the island is not very much developed.

We had a stroll around the town on our second day and we actually found that it can be a fairly busy place that can well reflect the buzz in the main land.

Duong Dong Town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

The calm river cuts across the town and if you walk over the bridge on the left hand side you will find a very busy local market where you can feel the conservative and yet communal side of the vietnamese

Duong Dong River cuts through the town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Local market in Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

And yes, we found out that Vietnamese get married any day of the week! Congratulations!

Wedding in Duong Dong Town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

One of the highlights of Duong Dong is surely the night market, opened from 5pm to midnight, in the town centre. Here you can get your souvenirs and have a good value for money sit down meal. Great grilled fish and soups are very tasty.

Night market in Duong Dong Town in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

If you feel like having a good coffee and cake to complete your meal try the Buddy Ice Cream, located just at the end of the market, they not only serve the best ice creams but they host a well of information on the island. It’s a traveller’s modern cafes with free internet and a helpful staff. Good to keep in mind!

Buddy Ice Cream Cafe in Duong Dong Town, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Taxis are always around when you need them, so not worry if you stay outside Duong Dong area! We were told the cheapest meter taxi company is called Phu Quoc..

Phu Quoc Taxi Company,Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Lounge, Lounge and …..Lounge!

Enjoying the sea waves on the Long Beach shore,Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Good Morning World!

Welcome to Long Beach in Phu Quoc. This morning we enjoyed a long walk along our beach coastline, realizing how quiet it can be despite being considered the busiest strip of beach on the island.

Long Beach on Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Today we have decided to explore a bit more of the island and its wild deserted beaches that we’ve heard of on the book guides..the best way to do it is indeed by renting a motorbike and just wander off…for 150.000d you can have one for a whole day and if you ask for a detailed map at the hotel all you need is a towel and some sun protection cream!

There are only a few roads that cut through the island, with other coastal or connecting tracks covered on red dust, ideal for a jeep but with a bit of caution you can ride along with a moped too!

We headed north of Duong Dong on the main road and turned left in Cua Can village, to follow a dusty coastal road along Vung Bau Beach. It was fun to ride through what is a far from developed area, coming across strips of beaches left at their wildest and enjoy the tropical landscape with only a few other human being encounterings, it gave us a sense of immense freedom! There are only a couple of resorts in Vung Bau, everything else is just nature and some dotted huts inhabited by the locals..

Deserted beaches near Vung Bao, in the northern part of Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

Vung Bao Beach, Phu Quoc Island. Vietnam

An Thoi Archipelago

On our last day we took a tour to visit the An Thoi Islands, off the southern tip of Phu Quoc. They are almost all deserted and apparently the only way to visit them is by joining of of the fishing and snorkelling tours offered by most of the hotels.This is so fascinating!

The tour is $25 dollars per person for a full day including a generous vietnamese lunch on the boat. The young tour guide was fun and open to questions. We understood that Phu Quoc has been well noticed by major investors and they will soon turn the southern part of the island into an upmarket holiday destination by 2020…Driving on the way to the An Thoi port we could actually have a vague perception on the level of work that its getting done in order to transform Phu Quoc…which means saying goodbye soon to wild beaches and scattered huts….I feel lucky that we had the chance to enjoy the rural side of Phu Quoc this year!

a major development is taking place in the southern part of Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

On the same road we stopped to visit the Ngoc Hien Pearl Factory, the only true pearl workshop in the island that is supervised by Japanese experts that control the cultivation of pearl. Other factories unfortunately sell counterfeit pearls, so please keep this in mind! At the workshop we learnt that a the value of a pearl is based on it perfect round shape, rarity in colour and shines and it is not easy to have this combination even in a pearl farm, let alone find a good pearl in the sea…

I am not a jewellery shopper but I have to admit that I found the whole thing very fascinating..and I wasn’t going to buy anything until the lady at the counter mentioned “present for mum?” in her primitive english…that was it!

Ngoc Hien Pearl Factory in Phu Quoc Island

The island tour was fun and very relaxing at the same time, as we lounged on the top boat deck chairs on a hot sunny day, here are some hints of the islands and its locals…

An Thoi Islands, Phi Quoc, Vietnam

On the way back we were taken to visit beautiful white sanded Sao Beach, which is said to be the most attractive beach on the island, on the south eastern side. Oh, what a wonderful day!

Sao beach in Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam

We are really sad to leave all this beauty behind, if I can give you an advice I would say don’t rush in here, allow to treat your body and mind for at least a week in Paradise!

On our next move we will be heading to Hoi An, the Unesco World Heritage ancient town that survived the Vietnam wars..stay tuned with us!

Marta&Hugh